New Berlin, Pistas & the Río Uruguay   4 comments

The next morning at the Parador Playa Ubici I was greeted by this view:

Puente Internacional over the Río Uruguay

The Pulp Mill on the river looked a lot less romantic than last night…


Pulp Mill

… and the dead fish lining the shore were a rather sobering sight. Officially the fish mortality was caused by the freezing cold earlier that week, so the land lady told me, but in reality it’s down to the sewage of the factories further up the Río Negro.

Dead fish lining the shore

I had breakfast in the sun on the terrace.

Breakfast in the sun

The cat kept me company

Now on the bike, I went for a sight-seeing tour through Fray Bentos to find out where and how far I had walked the night before and to appreciate the home town of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company, founded by the German organic chemist Baron Justus von Liebig in the 19th century, in daylight.

Main Square in Fray Bentos

The former manufactory of the Liebig Extract of Meat Company, shut down in 1979.

The Liebig Extract of Meat manufactory

Then it was back to the Ruta 3 heading north. Leopoldo had mentioned the village of Nuevo Berlin the previous day and I couldn’t resist to make a detour to this new edition of my hometown by the Río Uruguay.

New edition of my home town

The city map looks slightly different...

... and so does the 'Kurfürstendamm'

I didn’t fancy to retrace my tracks and therefore took a camino leading roughly towards Paysandú, my next destination. The first attempt ended in a cul-de-sac, but as there was only a horse to ask for directions, I just tried another trail. It was bumpy, rutted and sandy but lead me to a tarmac road which joined the Ruta 3 again after a while – voilà!


To be perfectly honest – and I’d like to apologise to my Uruguayan readers – the Ruta 3 was not particularly exciting and when I spotted a sign to a ‘Parque Histórico’, I happily went on a little excursion to the Meseta de Artigas.


To the Meseta de Artigas

The road was lovely

Lined by orange groves

Supposedly it's winter over here...

I was even treated to a little dirt trail when I entered the historical park.


Trail to the Meseta

... where I had a fantastic view over the Río Uruguay

The bust of General José Gervasio Artigas after whom the site is named.


The bust of General José Gervasio Artigas

Río Uruguay still life with DRZ


I was not the only one enjoying the vistas...


A last look north...

… then I returned to the Ruta 3 again. The GPS showed a campsite near the Reservoir Salto Grande and so I rode past the Termas del Daymán and the beautiful town of Salto until I arrived at the lakeside. Only then it dawned on me that the indicated campsite was actually on the Argentinean side of the reservoir (I have downloaded the map software from an Argentinean GPS forum). But I still wanted to stay a night in Uruguay. So I followed the camping signs further north. Nada – nothing. It was getting dark and I still had not found a place for the night.

Finally I pulled up at the Horacio Quiroga Spa Termal Hotel. Oh, the signs stand for day-camping only and the nearest campsite would be at the Termas del Daymán, 30 kilometres south… Mmm, that’s where I just passed through an hour ago and I personally hate to go back. How much is a single room in your hotel? 139? US Dollars? Thanks very much – back to the Termas it is then.

It was really getting late; against my usual behaviour (I’m German after all!) I broke the speed limit of 75 km/h and still arrived at the Termas del Daymán only after dark. No campsite was to be seen. But there – Hostal Canela said a sign, that’s where I will stay the night. The land lady was welcoming and very interested in my bike. She helped me carrying all the luggage into my room and made sure I felt at home. For the equivalent of GBP 16 I was given a whole apartment to myself. The photos are from the next morning but you get the idea how wonderful the place already appeared at night.


Hostal Canela at Termas del Daymán



My apartment

And another one - just to make you jealous...

Of course, when I walked into the centre of the village for dinner I saw the campsite and a lot more hotels but I was really happy with the place I was staying in. So if you ever find yourself in the area – Hostal Canela can be highly recommended.

The following day would take me into Argentina again.

Posted 5 September 2010 by Pumpy in Uruguay

4 responses to “New Berlin, Pistas & the Río Uruguay

Subscribe to comments with RSS.

  1. Hi Ela,

    Great pics and it looks like you’re making good progress too.

  2. love getting the updates and SO glad you met a pussy cat to keep you company!!

  3. Hi Ela, loving the pics and the commentary!

  4. Hi Ela

    Im really enjoying your trip from the comfort of my office, Im so proud of you “Dirty Girl”.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: