Wednesday 5th November 2014
Busses to Punta Arenas leave Puerto Natales every hour and so we have a bit of a lie-in after our early start the previous day. The Ruta 9 is paved and we enjoy a comfortable journey looking out for huemules, ñandúes and sheep, hundreds of thousands of sheep.
Puerto Natales looks like freshly laundered in the morning
Local press
Along the Ruta 9
First glance of the Estrecho de Magallanes – the Strait of Magellan – and Tierra del Fuego
What we didn’t know is that there is a big endocrinology congress taking place in Punta Arenas, hotels are fully booked, and so we spend several hours searching for accommodation. Finally, the helpful señora in the tourist information office finds us a room in a small B&B a bit further away from the centre up a steep hill.
On the way to the hostal I am interviewed for a school project
The views make up for the relative remoteness of our accommodation (click on the photo for full panorama size)
Down into town
The southernmost English-speaking school in the world, founded in 1896 and serving an area larger than that of Great Britain
Palacio Sara Braun, where Shackleton was received by the British Club in July 1916 and where he raised funds to rescue the rest of the Endurance crew still stranded on Elephant Island
Monument of the schooner Ancud, sent by the Chilean government in 1843 to claim sovereignty over the Strait of Magellan
Imperial Cormorants – or long-necked penguins, as Johannes claims…
And at long last, Johannes spots an Huemul (South Andean deer)
Not everyone can be as lucky as I was in 2010…
Still, we celebrate the occasion with two of our Chilean favourites: Raspberry juice and Churrasco Italiano (thinly cut steak in a bread roll with avocado, mayonnaise and tomato)
La Catedral – Punta Arenas is the southernmost city in the world (the towns of Ushuaia (Argentina) and Puerto Williams (Chile) lie further south though)
Thursday 6th November 2014
We have a rest day in Punta Arenas – I really like the place and there is still a lot to see. Johannes enjoys sitting on the Plaza Muñoz Gamero watching the world go by…
Statue of Magellan with a mermaid and two indigenous Fuegians at his feet
Local legend has it that touching the Fuegian’s toes will bring you back to Punta Arenas one day…
In the meantime I visit the Museo Regional de Magallanes in the Palacio Braun Menéndez
Office of Mauricio Braun, brother of Sara, another member of the wealthy pioneer family
El Comedor
First charting of the Strait of Magellan in the 16th century
Writing utensils of José Nogueira, Sara Braun’s husband, successful sheep breeder and merchant in Sandy Point (Punta Arenosa in Spanish)
Early examples of the excellent Chilean wine
Reunited Johannes and I explore more of the city
Long-necked penguins and Tierra del Fuego in the background
Of course, I have to touch the sea
Captain Johannes at the wheel
We also visit the city’s fascinating cemetery
How people like you and I are buried in this part of the world
This reminds us that life is short and should be lived to the full
In the evening we find a little gem of a restaurant
Is it the shaky hand of our lovely host that makes us look blurred?
Or all the alcohol?
We drag each other home – buenas noches, Punta Arenas!
Tomorrow we will continue our journey to Tierra del Fuego and cross the Strait of Magellan.
Pumpernickel on Tour 
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